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| New years day - time to start thinking about pruning the fruit trees |
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| Saturday, 31 December 2011 11:39 |
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Article submitted by Matt G - Essex - ( Free seeds are on their way! ) Manchester Drive allotment society is a demanding institution. Over the last year of Sunday dibbing and hoeing we have been sporadically visited by gangs of ‘society’ people casually wandering past, ostensivly discussing the state of the weather , the prevalence of whitefly or the latest incursion of Limax Maximus on their brassicas whilst casting a critical eye over our efforts. Fortunately being at the end of a row their slow advance can be spotted relatively easily,which allows us to have a quick tidy up, hide the slug pellets ,look busy and stow the illegal bacon sandwich gas stove under the bath tub before they arrive. However our impressive row of brussel sprouts and my father in lawsCounty Mayo charm have clearly done the trick as we have been granted a second plot for next year. Over a crafty bacon sandwich we have decided to devote this one to perennial veg( rhubarb, artichokes, strawberries etc.) and most importantly Fruit trees.
Many many books have been written about pruning fruittrees, however there are some basic rules which should ensure ascetically pleasing but most importantly productive trees. My Dads proudest pruning achievement was producing acompletely bowl shaped Conference pear tree in our back garden. It was pleasing to eye and excellent to climb, but most importantly allowed two things two happen. One you could stand comfortably in the middle of the tree and reach most of the fruit without dangling off the end of a branch. Secondly it allowed space, light and air to reach the interior of the tree. This is very important. Increased light obviously allows increased photosynthesis, but the increased circulation of air reduces damp micro climates forming within the tree canopywhich reduce fungal diseases that could limit fruit production. Sometimes an unkempt tree can look like a wooden version of Ker Plunk with branches criss crossing everywhere. The first thing I did (after sanding the skirting) at my flat, was to cut out all the crossing branches in the trees. Always remove the weakest of the branches. Removing the crosses prevents branches rubbing which cause sores and infection but also stops branches blocking sunlight to each other. A golden rule of flowers and fruit production is that horizontal branches will produce a better crop. This is again due to Phloem, the sugary sap that provides one part of the fuel for Photosynthesis. Horizontal or downward pointing branches mean the plant has less work to do sucking the Phloem up against gravity and so more is available for flower and fruit. When pruning try to ensure you are not encouraging the tree to grow straight up as it will have to work harder for your crop. A general rule I’ve always followed is to prune back the previous years growth to two buds. This keeps the tree compact and allows you to control how it grows over the years. A compact tree is important, the last thing you want to be doing is dangling off a flimsy branch reaching for thatperfect specimen of Conference of James Greive that is just out of reach. If you do find yourself in this position its good to copy Victorian chimney sweeps and get hold of a small child to do it , whether you light a fire under them is up to you.
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| Last Updated on Saturday, 21 January 2012 00:31 |



Comments
If you have just inherited these trees I would leave them alone this year. The sap is rising quickly now and the trees will be breaking their buds very soon. (my trees are starting to break already.) I would leave all thre trees this year and keep a close eye on what you end up with. You can see what branches fruit well (they are not all the same) and make a note of them to prune next January. Im in Essex and we are very warm and dry here. If you are in the North of England or Scotland you might risk a prune. Otherwise I would wait. Do a prune of this years growth in the late summer (that will be the whippy straight stems and they will bear no fruit this year. Then in early january prune hard back removing crossing branches (the weaker of the cross) and opening up the middle of your tree more. take the branch back to a fat outward facing bud. Hope this helps
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